Corset
c. 1868-1874
FIDM Museum Purchase
2011.5.28
In the late 1860s, the fashionable bodice fit smoothly over a curvaceous corset that emphasized the bust. Skirts flared from a high, compressed waist, so corsets were shaped to place somewhat less pressure on the hips. The resulting silhouette, though hidden under layers of fabric, was a shapely hourglass. As seen in in our blue silk satin corset, godets at hip and bust allowed for a relatively roomy fit. Strategically placed whalebone, cane or steel boning shaped the corset, compressing the body into the desired silhouette. Because of its full bust and rounded hips, the wearer's waist would appear relatively small in comparison, regardless of its actual size. When fully laced and fastened, the waist circumference of this corset is about 22 inches.
In August 1965, British Vogue featured the designs of Ossie Clark, a recent graduate of London's Royal College of Art. Clark's graduation collection featured the graphic patterns and short shift dresses that were popular in the freewheeling milieu of mid-1960s Swinging London. Within a few years, Clark's style had evolved, relying on dramatic sleeves, peek-a-boo cut-outs, flowing skirts, and a defined waistline to create a flattering, overtly feminine silhouette. Clark's aesthetic was informed by his love of glamour and an appreciation for a curvaceous silhouette. According to one woman who wore his designs regularly, "the clothes were intoxicating to wear. They made you feel omnipotent and feminine because they were so complimentary to the body."1 She was not alone in her feelings about Ossie Clark's designs; more testaments to his work can be read here. Clark's clients and fans included Liza Minelli (she wore Ossie Clark in the 1972 film Cabaret), Marianne Faithfull, Suzy Menkes, Mick Jagger and Twiggy. Maxi-dress Ossie Clark with print by Celia Birtwell c. 1969 Gift of Honeya Barth 2008.923.1A
RIPPED: Expressions from the Underground is now open! Exploring the art and influence of punk rock on design and culture, RIPPED features 150 band T-shirts, photographs, posters, and related ephemera from the punk, post-punk and indie rock eras. Curated by Cesar Padilla, artist, musician, collector, and punk rock enthusiast, RIPPED is based on Padilla's 2010 book, Ripped: T-shirts from the Underground. In the November 2012 issue of our newsletter, Cesar Padilla discusses how and why he began collecting T-shirts.
RIPPED: Expressions from the Underground is open until December 22, 2012. This FREE exhibition is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10am–5pm. Follow RIPPED on Facebook for regular exhibition updates.
Want to learn more about The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection? You're in luck! The Costume Cafe's Colleen Marie Monroe recently interviewed FIDM MuseumCurator Kevin Jones about this outstanding collection. Their conversation covered a range of topics, including the origins of Helen Larson's collection, her collecting methodology and a discussion of collection highlights. You can listen to their conversation via The Costume Cafe's podcast page. Hope you enjoy this look into The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection!
This quilted petticoat is a fascinating garment. Though worn as an undergarment, it features detailed quilting and a cheerful textile. We first published this post in late 2009, but with winter weather on the horizon, it seemed a good time to revisit this warm and visually striking petticoat.
**********
Before the introduction of the cage crinoline in 1856, women typically wore multiple layers of petticoats. The petticoat layers (sometimes as many as 6!) not only shaped the skirt into a fashionable bell-shape, but also provided warmth. Between about 1825-1850, petticoats with elaborate quilting were fashionable. Called "quilted coats," "wearing quilts" or "quilts," these petticoats were simply large quilts meant to be worn on the body. They were often created in the same manner as bed quilts, with women working together to complete the patterned stitching. After stitching up the single, vertical back-seam and gathering the drawstring waist, the quilted petticoat was ready for wearing.
Quilted petticoat c. 1840-45 Gift of Anna Bing Arnold 2003.795.12
