FIDM Museum Blog

Memorial Day Exhibition: "Freedom's On Me"

Freedom's On Me
Presented by the FIDM Chapter of the Student Veterans of America

Open Daily
May 25, 2013 - June 1, 2013
10 am- 5 pm
Open Memorial Day
Free to the Public

Commemorating Memorial Day and members of the US Military fallen in Iraq and Afghanistan, Freedom’s On Me is an exhibition of poster art featuring poignant, stylized portraits of soldiers who were killed in action. Created by FIDM Graduate Poto Leifi, the posters are reminiscent of the patriotic posters displayed in America’s downtown storefronts during World War II. The title of Leifi’s special art project Freedom’s On Me is a patriotic twist on the expression, “Drinks are on me.” Learn more about Leifi's project on the artist's website.

Freedom’s On Me opens at the FIDM Museum on Friday, May 24, 2013 at 11:30 am. The opening event will include a public ceremony, a Color Guard, greetings from the City of Los Angeles Mayor’s office, and a welcome from the artist Poto Leifi. To attend the opening event, please send an email to RSVP@FIDMmuseum.org.

Merlot-Larchevêque day ensemble, c. 1867

Day Ensemble
c. 1867
Madame Merlot-Larchevêque
Museum Purchase
2008.5.45A-C

The rise of France's haute couture industry in the mid-nineteenth century coincided with the astounding growth of industrial family fortunes in the United States. Couturiers astutely recognized the profits to be gained from catering to "new money." Privileged American women had the time and means to travel to Paris to acquire seasonal wardrobes. In 1867, Madame Merlot-Larchevêque (active c. 1855-1880s) advertised her dressmaking establishment in the most popular American women's magazine of the time, Godey's Lady's Book. Her showroom was located on the Boulevard des Capucines across from the luxurious Grand Hotel and, conveniently, English was spoken there. Godey's described the luxurious textiles from which a lady could commission a gown: "We enter the inner sanctum of Mme. Merlot Larchevêque, and see tissues of the most exquisite hues, of the richest textures, and in an unprecedented variety, thrown round in the greatest profusion."¹ The brilliant aniline-dyed color of this silk faille and taffeta gown was fashionably termed "sulphur yellow."²

1 Godey's Lady's Book (February 1867), 204.
2 Godey's Lady's Book (November 1867), 460.

Out & About: Fred Astaire's tuxedo on exhibit at the RISD Museum

In today's post, FIDM Museum Registrar Meghan Grossman Hansen describes the process of preparing objects for transport to exhibitions at other institutions. FIDM Museum has an active loan program, and we often have 1 or more objects on exhibit at museums near or far. Beginning April 28, see a tuxedo worn by Fred Astaire in Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Men of Fashion at the RISD Museum in Providence, Rhode Island.

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We are always excited to see the FIDM Museum collection travel. Most recently, we sent Fred Astaire's tuxedo to join many other dapper gentlemen in Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Men of Fashion, an exhibition at the RISD Museum (April 28 - August 18, 2013). Featuring more than 200 objects, this exhibit traces the history and persona of the dandy, with a focus on well-known fashionable men.

Fred Astaire was very particular about his wardrobe, with strong preferences about cuffs, jacket length, stripe width, and other minute details. He once claimed that he took each new suit to the tailor "at least half a dozen times."¹ For Artist/Rebel/Dandy, we loaned the RISD Museum a 1930s tuxedo, waistcoat, and bow tie worn by Astaire. The wool crepe tuxedo was made by Anderson & Sheppard Ltd., a Savile Row tailor still in existence today.

Fred Astaire’s tuxedo on exhibit at the RISD Museum, loan courtesy of the FIDM Museum, City of Los Angeles, Department of Recreation and Parks (L88.1.31AB). Photograph by Erik Gould, courtesy of the RISD Museum.

 

Jeanne Lanvin fashion figure

Fashion Figure
Winter 1921
Jeanne Lanvin
Museum Purchase
2008.25.1

The original purpose of this extremely rare Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) fashion figure is a mystery. It may have been associated with an extensive display of figures at the International Silk Exhibition held in New York City's Grand Central Palace in 1921.¹ Its construction is unusual: a flat, wooden body with lightly padded contours covered with flesh-colored silk crêpe and articulated copper arms with flipper-like hands in the angular Art Deco style. The haughty, painted face with its target-like rouge mimics the highly stylized makeup of the maison's super-attenuated fashion plate figures.

A corresponding croquis from the Lanvin Archive reveals this modѐle's title: "Rose Poupon," which translates to "Plump Rose." It is also a play on words referencing the fashion figures of the eighteenth-century called "poupées," or "dolls," that were sent worldwide to showcase the latest Paris fashions. Lanvin's romantic robe de style—a full-skirted dress with concentrations of gathers at the hips—was the antithesis of the sleek, tubular silhouette that dominated the 1920s. Gathered ribbon roses with hand-tinted pink centers trim the neckline and form a trellis on the skirt. They were called "roses de Polignac," after Gabrielle, comtesse de Polignac (1749-1793), confidant of Queen Marie Antoinette (1755-1793). Lanvin's daughter and muse, Marie-Blanche (1897-1958), was a twentieth-century comtesse de Polignac.

1 Vogue (April 1, 1921), 42-43.

 

Fashion Birthday: Hubert de Givenchy

Couturier Hubert de Givenchy was born on this day in 1927. Now retired, Givenchy is one of the last living couturiers to have learned his art during the golden age of the haute couture. His training began in 1945 when he took a position with Jacques Fath. By December 1951, when Givenchy opened his own couture house, he had trained under Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Schiaparelli. Vogue highlighted Givenchy's February 1952 debut collection, calling it "one of the most news-worthy happenings in Paris this spring."¹ The collection was notable for its emphasis on separates, including the crisp white Bettina blouse, modeled by Bettina Graziani. A version of the Bettina blouse is seen in this March 1952 Life magazine article on Givenchy's debut collection.

Evening dress
Hubert de Givenchy
Autumn-Winter 1968-69
Silk velvet, cockerel feathers
77.116.14
Gift of Mrs. Alfred Bloomingdale

Making paper wigs

When dressing a mannequin for exhibition, it's important not to overlook the details. Careful attention to the total look makes an ensemble, and an exhibition, complete. Fully dressed mannequins also help visitors better understand the time-period on display. Once we've selected a garment for inclusion in an exhibition, we consider accessories. Is jewelry appropriate? Should she carry a handbag? What about shoes? And most importantly...what about hair?

Curly hair c. 1895 topped with a straw boater. The waves were created by cutting paper on curved lines. To keep the curls from appearing limp, individual strands of hair were curled with a pencil

21st Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition is now open!

21st Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design
February 12-April 27, 2013
Tuesday–Saturday
10:00 am to 5:00 pm
FREE and open to the public.

The FIDM Museum is pleased to announce the opening of the 21st Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition! Since its inception in 1992, the exhibition has annually honored the incredible creativity of costume designers in the film industry. This year's exhibit showcases costumes from all five Academy Award nominees for Best Costume: Anna Karenina, Les Misérables, Lincoln, Mirror Mirror, and Snow White and the Huntsman. Also featured are costumes from American Reunion, Argo, The Avengers, Django Unchained, End of Watch, Hitchcock, The Hunger Games, John Carter, The Master, ParaNorman, A Royal Affair, Skyfall, and Sparkle. Selected costumes from The Artist, last year's Academy Award winner for Costume Design, are also on exhibit.

We know you'll visit soon, but in the meantime, enjoy this preview of the exhibit. To see additional images, including some pictures of the opening celebration, visit our Facebook page.

Gallery overview

Prada orchid shoes, Spring/Summer 2008

Shoes
Spring/Summer 2008
Miuccia Prada
Silk velvet, suede, leather & plastic
Museum Purchase
2009.5.11AB

Miuccia Prada (b. 1949) received a PhD in political science from the University of Milan, but altered the course of her life by entering the world of fashion. She is a major collector of modern art—a passion reflected in collaborations with emerging talents, such as artist James Jean (b. 1979), who drew enchanted forests filled with fairies, insects, and orchids for Prada's Spring/Summer 2008 line. Jean's sinuous illustrations were enlarged as a backdrop for the fashion show and advertising campaign, in addition to being printed on clothing, purses, and shoeboxes. His fantasy world came to life in Trembled Blossoms, a short animated film produced to correspond with the Prada collection. Transformation and fragility pervade the movie: a naked, nymph-like woman emerges from an orchid to be dressed in a complete Prada wardrobe by magical forest creatures that morph into clothing. Orchids blossom on the heels of this pair of pumps; their glossy sheen suggests hand-painted porcelain. The rich floral palette and girlish bows continue the theme of enchanting female charm.

A Century of Cotton: Selections from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection, 1800-1900

A Century of Cotton: Selections from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection, 1800-1900
FIDM Museum Larson Gallery
Tuesday through Saturday, 10am–5pm
Opens to the public February 12, 2013

Showcasing the beauty and versatility of cotton fabrics, this exhibition highlights selected cotton garments and accessories from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection. Beginning in the late seventeenth-century, lightweight cotton fabrics gradually supplanted the dominance of fragile and expensive silks. As cotton became increasingly popular, fashionable dress incorporated this new medium into its vocabulary. Including woven, printed and embroidered cottons, A Century of Cotton also traces the dramatic changes that occurred in the fashionable female silhouette between 1800 and 1900.

Afternoon Dress
United States, c. 1908
Cotton-embroidered linen & cotton crochet lace
L2011.13.1060

Hat
Europe or United States, c. 1908
Cotton floral trim & straw
L2011.13.538

Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection
Proposed FIDM Museum Acquisitions

 

21st Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design opens February 12, 2013

 

21st Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design
February 12-April 27, 2013
Tuesday–Saturday
10:00 am to 5:00 pm
FREE and open to the public.

Since its inception in 1992, the Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition has honored the incredible work of costume designers in the film industry. Now in its 21^st year, the 2013 exhibition will feature over 100 costumes from selected 2012 films, including all five Academy Award nominees for best Costume Design. Including costumes from A Royal Affair, Anna Karenina, Argo, Django Unchained, Hitchcock, Les Misérables, Lincoln, Mirror Mirror, Skyfall, Snow White and the Huntsman, and other films, the exhibition will offer visitors a close-up view of the costumer's art.

 

In 2012, The Artist by Costume Designer Mark Bridges won the Academy Award® for Costume Design. Selected costumes from The Artist will be on display in this year's exhibition.