FIDM Museum Blog

Ossie Clark ensemble, c. 1969

In August 1965, British Vogue featured the designs of Ossie Clark, a recent graduate of London's Royal College of Art. Clark's graduation collection featured the graphic patterns and short shift dresses that were popular in the freewheeling milieu of mid-1960s Swinging London. Within a few years, Clark's style had evolved, relying on dramatic sleeves, peek-a-boo cut-outs, flowing skirts, and a defined waistline to create a flattering, overtly feminine silhouette. Clark's aesthetic was informed by his love of glamour and an appreciation for a curvaceous silhouette. According to one woman who wore his designs regularly, "the clothes were intoxicating to wear. They made you feel omnipotent and feminine because they were so complimentary to the body."¹ She was not alone in her feelings about Ossie Clark's designs; more testaments to his work can be read here. Clark's clients and fans included Liza Minelli (she wore Ossie Clark in the 1972 film Cabaret), Marianne Faithfull, Suzy Menkes, Mick Jagger and Twiggy.
Maxi-dress
Ossie Clark with print by Celia Birtwell
c. 1969
Gift of Honeya Barth
2008.923.1A

Fast fashion

Over the last few years, collaborations between clothing designers and mass-market retailers have become increasingly common. These fast fashion or capsule collections consist of a small group of designer items created for a specific retailer and are only available for a limited time. Capsule collections allow the average consumer to purchase a designer item at significant savings while allowing mass-market chains to increase their profile through targeted marketing campaigns. For new or unestablished designers, capsule collections help spread their name and design aesthetic, while well-known designers are able to bring their designs to a wider audience. Though these collaborations are now commonplace, one of the very first high/low collaborations was between Karl Lagerfeld and H&M, which launched in November 2004.

As the first such collaboration, Lagerfeld's capsule collection received a tremendous amount of attention from both consumers and the press. Carried in roughly half of the H&M stores, customers lined up for hours before stores opened in order to purchase one of the Lagerfeld designed items. The collection sold out within hours at many H&M stores and there were reports of customers actually grabbing garments out of the hands of sales clerks. The FIDM Museum black silk cocktail dress seen below is one of Lagerfeld's designs for H&M.

Cocktail dress
Karl Lagerfeld for H&M
Fall 2004
Museum Purchase
2004.5.47A-C