FIDM Museum Blog

From the Archives: Discovering Counterfeit Chanel No. 5 in a Museum Collection

For the next two weeks, we'll be featuring posts from our extensive blog archives. Today's post was written by Meghan Hansen, FIDM Museum Registrar, in 2009. In this post, she dives into our fragrance archive with an investigation into a counterfeit Chanel No. 5 box and bottle.

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“Bathtub Perfume Traps Pool Shark”¹  “Pair Arrested in Sale of 11c Perfume for $15”²

These headlines suggest the rampant problem of piracy in the perfume industry, a criminal activity prevalent in any field in which luxury goods are involved. For an example of the legal battles that can ensue from the selling of pirated fashions, check out this New York Times blog post. Though Chanel’s fragrances were not the only French perfumes targeted by counterfeiters, Chanel No. 5 consistently turns up in smuggling arrests, counterfeit busts, and consumer warnings about cheap perfume scams. Chanel No. 5 has a cachet that everyone wants, but where does this reputation come from?

Counterfeit Chanel No. 5 Bottle and Box
c. 1950-1959
Gift of Annette Green
F2005.860.986AB

Investigating a Silver Studio textile

 

In 2007, the Textile Group of Los Angeles donated a late 19th century Silver Studio textile panel to the FIDM Museum. About 7 feet long and 2 ½ feet wide, this printed cotton textile features a dynamic pattern of orange poppies and white daisy chains on a pink ground. As our curators were familiar with the Silver Studio, they were certain that the textile had been used to decorate an interior, not for garment construction. Silver Studio
1897
Gift of the Textile Group of Los Angeles
2007.916.1

Swingin' Summer

 

Swingin’ Summer, a collaboration between the FIDM Museum Shop and Clever Vintage Clothing, pays homage to the influence of swimwear on fashion and culture. On view in the FIDM Museum lobby through late July, this installation of swimwear and casual fashions includes ensembles by Catalina, Alfred Shaheen and the Kamehameha Garment Company. This installation is FREE and open to the public Monday-Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Selections from Swingin' Summer are featured below. Stop by the FIDM Museum lobby to see the full installation!

 

Ocean-themed straw handbags from the 1950s. The sequin embellished bag (front) was made in Japan, and the green and gold seashell handbag (back) is from Texas.

Coats and jackets

Whether you're ready or not, fall is here! Yesterday, September 22, was the official first day of fall in the northern hemisphere. By this time of year, most of us are ready to shed our lightweight summer clothing and are looking forward to wearing sweaters, boots and even winter coats. For those of you reading our blog from the southern hemisphere, you are probably having the exact opposite reaction and are excited to pack away your winter gear until next year!

In general, outerwear either mimics or complements the fashionable silhouette. This early 1970s graphic maxi coat looks very much like a maxi dress, a length of dress and skirt which first appeared in 1969-70. Though it might have been worn over a maxi dress, this maxi coat was possibly worn over leg-baring hot pants and platform boots. When walking, the 3 center front buttons would keep the top portion of the coat securely fastened, but the rest of the coat would swing open, exposing the legs of the wearer. Made of a heavy, warm wool, an interior tag indicates that it retailed at the New York store Henri Bendel.

Maxi coat
Wool
1970-72
Gift of Anonymous Donor
2003-40-55

Since we began our blog, we've featured a number of coats and jackets from our collection. Readers favored our orange 1930s velvet evening coat and a late 19th century military-inspired jacket. We also featured two Bonnie Cashin wool Noh coats and a Balenciaga coat and dress ensemble.

Readers, do any of these resemble the fall/winter coat you'll be wearing this year? How do you balance fashion and practicality (protection from rain, snow, etc.) when selecting a coat?

Shopping

Did you brave the crowds to do a bit of Black Friday shopping? If so, you probably visited a department store, boutique or perhaps a local craft fair. Or maybe you waited until today, Cyber Monday, to do your shopping online. Did any of the retail outlets you visited resemble the late 1920s dry goods store pictured below?

Though it might be a bit difficult to see, note the many bolts of fabric, one of which is being examined by the woman in the center of the image. Notice also the ready-made garments, hanging on the rack in front of the window.

Interior of a dry goods store
Late 1920s
Gift of Steven Porterfield
2009.897.135