Donna Karan's first solo collection, presented in spring 1985, was an immediate success. According to a fashion editor who attended the presentation, "pandemonium broke loose after the last three models appeared."1 Consisting of layered, monochromatic ensembles in cashmere, wool jersey and other subtly luxurious fabrics, Karan's collection responded to the needs of working women like herself: busy professionals with a desire to look both feminine and polished. By design, Karan's clothing flattered a curvier body: "Somewhere in the back of my mind is the figure I always start with—wide shoulders and a shaped body, with round hips."2
The foundation of Karan's signature style was a long-sleeved bodysuit, usually worn with opaque tights. Unlike the standard button-up blouse, the knit bodysuit emphasized and flattered a woman's torso. Over this sleek foundation, Karan layered, wrapped or tied skirts, shawls, coats and jackets. Because Karan favored a monochrome (usually black) palette, the basic components of this versatile wardrobe could be combined to create ensembles suitable for any season, any occasion.
This red Donna Karan knit bodysuit pairs with a matching skirt.
Bodysuit
Donna Karan
c. 1990
Gift of Mary Dubrow
S2005.855.2A