FIDM Museum Blog

Rudi Gernreich mini dress

Minidress
Rudi Gernreich
1967-68
Bequest of the Rudi Gernreich Estate
G85.331.1

Rudi Gernreich is probably best known for his most provocative creations, such as the monokini or this military ensemble. Though Gernreich was definitely interested in pushing fashion boundaries, some of his more light-hearted designs indicate an interest in non-Western dress. A specific focus on Asia reveals itself in the kabuki, kimono and Japanese schoolgirl dresses, all of which are loosely abstracted versions of garments worn in Japan. Gernreich also produced collections based on Chinese opera costumes and traditional garments of Thailand.

Transforming the Rudi Gernreich Archive

If you read this post, you'll know that the FIDM Museum houses an extensive Rudi Gernreich Archive. The Archive numbers nearly 1,000 items and includes not only garments and accessories, but patterns, furniture, scrapbooks and other miscellaneous items. We received the objects that now comprise the Rudi Gernreich Archive soon after Gernreich's death in 1985. At that time, the objects were placed in a separate storage area, away from the bulk of the FIDM Museum collection. Though intentions were good, objects were not always stored with an eye to long-term preservation.

Pages from one of the Gernreich swatch books.

Rudi Gernreich

California-based designer Rudi Gernreich (1922-1985) was no stranger to inciting controversy. Often called America's most avant-garde designer, Gernreich pushed fashion into new arenas rather than mining its past for inspiration. Gernreich's most notorious design, the 1964 topless bathing suit, bared the breasts of the wearer and was reportedly banned from beaches and retail stores. In early 1970, he introduced the Unisex look, which consisted of clothing intended to be worn interchangeably by both men and women. Gernreich was also an advocate of the Total Look, wherein hair, makeup and clothing were carefully coordinated to harmonize with each other.

Military ensemble
Rudi Gernreich
1970
Bequest of the Rudi Gernreich Estate
G85.331.3A-D