Remember the Rudi Gernreich Archive? Consisting of accessories, garments, paper patterns, furniture, scrapbooks and other miscellaneous items, this collection demonstrates the breadth and depth of Rudi Gernrich's creativity. Our post Transforming the Rudi Gernreich Archive described some of the steps we've taken to ensure the continued preservation of this extensive and varied collection. Thanks to a generous grant from the Robert M. Adams Charitable Foundation, we've been able to begin intensive work with an important component of the archive, Rudi Gernreich's scrapbooks.
Rudi Gernreich's 32 scrapbooks consist primarily of press clippings. Because of his innovative, sometimes controversial designs Gernreich received extensive press throughout his career. As you can see from this image, the paper clippings were taped or glued to the page. With age, the tape has become extremely discolored, not to mention brittle.The paper of the clippings themselves has also deteriorated with age. Though nothing can be done to reverse this process, our goal is to prevent further damage. The page seen here features articles and correspondence related to Gernreich's notorious topless bathing suit.
Page from Gernreich's topless bathing suit scrapbook, c. 1964
Minidress
Rudi Gernreich
1967-68
Bequest of the Rudi Gernreich Estate
G85.331.1
Rudi Gernreich is probably best known for his most provocative creations, such as the monokini or this military ensemble. Though Gernreich was definitely interested in pushing fashion boundaries, some of his more light-hearted designs indicate an interest in non-Western dress. A specific focus on Asia reveals itself in the kabuki, kimono and Japanese schoolgirl dresses, all of which are loosely abstracted versions of garments worn in Japan. Gernreich also produced collections based on Chinese opera costumes and traditional garments of Thailand.
If you read this post, you'll know that the FIDM Museum houses an extensive Rudi Gernreich Archive. The Archive numbers nearly 1,000 items and includes not only garments and accessories, but patterns, furniture, scrapbooks and other miscellaneous items. We received the objects that now comprise the Rudi Gernreich Archive soon after Gernreich's death in 1985. At that time, the objects were placed in a separate storage area, away from the bulk of the FIDM Museum collection. Though intentions were good, objects were not always stored with an eye to long-term preservation.
California-based designer Rudi Gernreich (1922-1985) was no stranger to inciting controversy. Often called America's most avant-garde designer, Gernreich pushed fashion into new arenas rather than mining its past for inspiration. Gernreich's most notorious design, the 1964 topless bathing suit, bared the breasts of the wearer and was reportedly banned from beaches and retail stores. In early 1970, he introduced the Unisex look, which consisted of clothing intended to be worn interchangeably by both men and women. Gernreich was also an advocate of the Total Look, wherein hair, makeup and clothing were carefully coordinated to harmonize with each other.
Military ensemble Rudi Gernreich 1970 Bequest of the Rudi Gernreich Estate G85.331.3A-D
