We are one week away from the presidential election - have you made your plan to vote? Whether it’s early or on election day, in-person or by mail, we have the perfect garment to encourage your sense of civic duty: a 1980s linen shirtdress printed with the words of the United States constitution. Surprisingly, this tribute to American democracy was designed by a Frenchman, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (b. 1949). Known for irreverent, whimsical designs, Castelbajac’s fascination with the United States is clear in his frequent use of Americana throughout his fifty plus years in the fashion industry.
Printed linen shirtdress, 1980s
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds generously donated by Barbara Bundy
Castelbajac’s aristocratic family has deep roots in France and a long history of military service - his ancestors were said to have fought alongside Joan of Arc![1] Jean-Charles, like his musician father before him, opted for a life devoted to the arts instead. He was introduced to fashion through his mother’s tailoring company in Limoges; from this workshop, he and his mother created his first company, Ko & Co. After moving to Paris in 1968, Castelbajac apprenticed for Pierre d’Alby, and later became part of the Créateurs et Industriels, a group of young ready-to-wear designers that included Issey Miyake, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Emmanuelle Khanh, and Thierry Mugler.[2] In addition to establishing his eponymous house in 1978, Castelbajac has worked as head designer for Max Mara and Courrèges; he is currently the artistic director of the United Colors of Bennetton.
The designer found major success in the early 1970s when he created an oversized wool coat made from his old boarding school blanket - a look that combined comfort, nostalgia, and a touch of eccentricity. The style became a signature, and kicked off a grand tradition of mixing unusual materials with high fashion. He favors natural textiles like wool and linen, and is well-known for his use of figurative objects such as plush dolls (Snoopy, Kermit the Frog, and teddy bears). Following in the footsteps of Surrealist fashion designers like Elsa Schiaparelli - see his collection celebrating Man Ray - Castelbajac always incorporates his lifelong love of contemporary art into his designs. He was once a noted collector of Neo-Expressionist pieces; now, he concentrates on creating his own artwork. He frequently collaborated with artists on his fashion show announcements, and later invited them to hand-paint his dresses. Robert Mapplethorpe, Jean-Charles Blais, Robert Malaval, Deborah Tuberville, and Keith Haring were part of Castelbajac’s inner circle, and contributed to his reputation as an artist first, designer second.