FIDM Museum Blog

FIDM Museum Special Collections Archives

We often share pieces from the FIDM Museum Special Collections, but did you know our holdings include several design archives? Today we’re giving you an overview of the archives in our collection, featuring personal papers, photographs, clippings, business records, sketches, and assorted ephemera from prominent 20th century fashion figures.

Mid-20th century sketch and fabric swatches in the Tina Leser Archive

Tina Leser

The Tina Leser (1910 – 1986) Archive, donated by the designer’s husband, contains sketches, fabric swatches, and scrapbooks from this mid-century American designer known for her elegant global-inspired aesthetic. Her vibrant painted sketches show several colorway fabric options, and are often accompanied with beautiful fabric swatches. Read about how this overflowing archive was processed here.  

Photo from the Betsy Bloomingdale Archive; Mrs. Bloomingdale is pictured at the opening of the LA Music Center in January 1965, wearing a Marc Bohan for Dior gown in the FIDM Museum collection

Betsy Bloomingdale

Betsy Bloomingdale (1922 – 2016) became a founding donor to our institution in 1977, giving a selection of haute couture from her wardrobe. Over the years, she donated over 180 ensembles and hundreds of croquis, culminating in the 2009 exhibition High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture. Associate Curator Christina Johnson is currently processing her personal archive, consisting of papers, calendars, scrapbooks, photos, invitations, and more. From Air Force One to the Battle of Versailles, Betsy’s papers provide invaluable documentation of late-20th century fashion.  Watch Christina Johnson examine one of the donated gowns and matching croquis in our Unboxing series.

Lightbox with slides from the Michel Arnaud Fashion Photography Archive, featured in the 2018 FIDM Museum exhibition Capturing the Catwalk

Michel Arnaud

Renowned photographer Michel Arnaud (b. 1944) spent over twenty years of his career (1974 – 1997) capturing international runway shows. In 2000, he donated his vast collection of slides – more than 180,000 in total – to the FIDM Museum. The Michel Arnaud Fashion Photography Archive is in the process of being digitized, with several images available on our Google Arts & Culture platform. The archive was the subject of the 2018 exhibition Capturing the Catwalk: Runway Photography from the Michel Arnaud Archive, curated by Meghan Hansen.

Professional papers from the Nancy Dinsmore Archive: hand-written notes on a 1980s Jane Fonda fashion shoot for a Harper's Bazaar editorial feature

FIDM Museum YouTube Channel

The FIDM Museum is proud to introduce our newly-launched YouTube channel, home of our extensive collection of video content.

Catwalk History slideshow from the 2018 exhibition Capturing the Catwalk: Runway Photography from the Michel Arnaud Archive, now available to watch on YouTube 

Start your viewing with Curator Kevin Jones’ introduction of the FIDM Museum Collection, then browse the playlists to find videos organized by categories, such as Fashion Photography or Art of Motion Picture Costume Design. Videos in these playlists will take you behind-the-scenes of our exhibitions with additional educational content like slide shows, interviews, and gallery tours. For example, you can now take a virtual walk-through of our 2011 exhibition FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions – keep your eye out for our beloved Alexander McQueen Peacock Dress!

Visitors browse the exhibition FABULOUS! Ten Years of Museum Acquisitions, 2000 - 2010, 2011

You can also find the full-length documentary that accompanied our 2009 exhibition High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture, featuring interviews with Oscar de la Renta, Hubert de Givenchy, James Galanos, Adolfo Sardina, and more.

Betsy Bloomingdale attends opening night of High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture, 2009

Catch up on our signature social media series, FIDM Museum Unboxings and Collection Conversations; all episodes will now be available on both Instagram and YouTube. Discover crafty new skills from Collections Manager and Mount Maker Carolyn Jamerson in her online tutorials (including the technique behind her famous paper wigs).

Paper wigs by Carolyn Jamerson, Art of Television Costume Design 2017; RuPaul's Drag Race costumes by Zaldy

Make sure to hit the subscribe button to stay up to date on the FIDM Museum’s latest videos, and comment below to tell us what you'd like to see more of on the channel! 

Scott Barrie

In 1966, Women’s Wear Daily highlighted the innovative work of a young New York designer fresh on the scene: Scott Barrie (1941 - 1993). Inspired by Madame Grès and the sinuous gowns of the 1930s, Barrie’s fashions were based on his experiments with draping, resulting in a collection of flattering, flowing dresses and pants that heralded the disco styles to come in the 1970s. He stated, “I have never worked in fabrics like matte jersey before, and I am discovering how exciting they can be...I am going to do things which you haven’t seen anywhere before.”^[1]

Scott Barrie with Pat Cleveland and Grace Jones after his Spring 1974 fashion show. Photo: Pierre Schermann, courtesy of Penske Media/Shutterstock

Scott Barrie, a pioneer of Black fashion design, was born Neal Clyde Barr in the small town of Apalachicola, Florida. Barrie’s interest in fashion was encouraged by his West Indian grandmother, a professional dressmaker.^[2] He learned to sew by watching her work, telling Ebony magazine in 1980, “I practically grew up under that machine, pedaling the thing for her. Naturally, by instinct you pick up the basics very early on.”^[3] His godmother was also a designer, and Barrie observed her making clothes for famous jazz singers such as Della Reese, Sarah Vaughn, and Dinah Washington.^[4]

Scott Barrie in Vogue Patterns, September/October 1978. Photo: Chris von Wangenheim

Barrie studied briefly at the Philadelphia Museum College of Art before moving to New York to attend the Mayer School of Fashion. Eager to begin his career, he took on several freelance jobs throughout the 1960s - including an apprenticeship with legendary Black designer Arthur McGee and a sketch artist position at Vogue Patterns. Though he was finding success with contract design work, in his own words, “What I wanted more than anything was to have my own business - my own name on the door.”^[5] He achieved this in 1969 when he launched Barrie Sport, Ltd. in partnership with Stephen Marks, husband of commercial model and frequent client Robbie Wolfe.^[6] Bloomingdales and Henri Bendel were among the first high-end stores that purchased Barrie Sport garments, allowing him to open his Seventh Avenue showroom in December 1972. Naomi Sims, a celebrated Black model, was a close friend of Barrie’s and often wore his designs for her high-profile press appearances. She helped him drum up business by modeling free of charge, and advised him on which designs to include in his collections.^[7]

Press photo of Scott Barrie with model Naomi Sims wearing his designs; New York, 1968

Naomi Sims wearing Scott Barrie in Virginia Slims ad; Vogue, June 1, 1972, page 65

Royal Relic: Documentation and Ongoing Research (Part Two)

 

We're back with Part Two of Curator Kevin Jones' series on an exciting new acquisition: an exquisite evening ensemble belonging to Queen Alexandra. In this post, Kevin tracks existing documentation of Queen Alexandra's wardrobe and connects it to this newly discovered object. Plus, he turns to royal wardrobe scholar and renowned fashion historian Dr. Kate Strasdin for her expert opinion.

Want to learn more about Kate and Kevin's collaboration on this project? Watch our Instagram Live on Friday, May 15 at 11 am PST for the first FIDM Museum Collection Conversation, a Q&A between Kate and Kevin! They will discuss the significance of the ensemble, what it means for Dr. Strasdin's ongoing research, and answer questions from viewers. If you have a question you'd like to submit, we invite you to leave a comment on this post. 

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The FIDM Museum’s latest acquisition is a beautifully embroidered evening ensemble made for Queen Alexandra of England at the time she was newly crowned. The three-piece outfit is synergistic with a wool blouse, also in our collection, that she wore as the new Princess of Wales forty years before. After waiting decades to ascend the throne, Edward VII finally became king on January 22, 1901, on the death of his long-reigned mother, Queen Victoria (1819-1901). The first year of mourning allowed time to prepare for the coronation (and Edward’s recovery from an emergency appendicitis), which finally took place in Westminster Abby on August 9, 1902.

King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in coronation robes, 9 August 1902. Photographer: W & D Downey (active 1855-1941). Royal Collection Trust, RCIN2933174.

By this time, Alexandra had left off deep mourning and wearing dull black crepe. For the coronation year, she dazzled in spangled court dresses that showed off her celebrated figure and status as the highest titled woman in the United Kingdom and its dominions. By this stage in her life (nearing 60 years), Alexandra’s daywear was British made, but her evening attire was mostly French. She mainly patronized three couturiers in Paris: Morin-Blossier, Laferrière, and Favre.

Designer’s label in Reception Bodice, Henriette Favre, Paris, ca. 1902-06. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Barbara Bundy, 2020.5.21A/C.

This ensemble was created by the latter, and is typical of the house style when compared to other examples worn by Alexandra. Henriette Favre (dates unknown; worked at least from the 1890s to the 1910s) specialized in allover embroidered patterns, especially favoring flat metal sequins that gave maximum glitter under incandescent lights.

Sleeve detail, Reception Bodice, Henriette Favre, Paris, ca. 1902-06. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Barbara Bundy, 2020.5.21A/C.

Paper Flowers Pattern

The FIDM Museum is full of fabulous floral fashions - now, you can make your own sartorial stems at home! Inspired by the gorgeous blooms in our collection, we've created a pattern for paper flowers. The materials are simple, but the possibilities are endless; from corsages to centerpieces, headbands to picture frames, it just takes a little glue and a lot of imagination. Use our easy-to-follow template to start, then let your creativity take over. Amp up the scale to make a unique piece of wall art, or try different petal shapes to replicate your favorite posy. Best of all, Mother's Day is right around the corner - give your mom a homemade bouquet, or make flowers together to celebrate! Don't forget to tag us in your creations using #FIDMMuseum and #FIDMMuseumFamily.

Click here to download the paper flower template. Before you begin, check out a few floral objects from the FIDM Museum collection to inspire your projects!

Hat
Christian Dior
c. 1950
FIDM Museum Purchase
2014.5.79

Evening Coat
Norman Norell
c. 1967
Gift of Clarissa Dyer
2003.794.3      

Evening gown
Marc Bohan for Christian Dior
Spring-Summer 1963
77.116.3
Gift of Mrs. Alfred Bloomingdale

Royalty Revealed: Discovering a New Acquisition (Part One)

 

FIDM Museum Curator Kevin Jones shares a very exciting (and regal!) new acquisition in today's post. In this two-part series, learn how the Museum found this object, collaborated with a colleague across the pond to verify its origins, and its significance to the scholarship of royal dress. 

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The FIDM Museum acquires objects for upcoming exhibitions, research projects, and just because they are beautiful. Sometimes years pass before they are displayed in our galleries, but all of our collections are readily available by appointment and, increasingly, online for anyone with an interest in fashion history. We have had garments and accessories donated by individuals or families with no prior connection to the Museum, and from long-standing supporters who know the kinds of objects we desire. Additionally, we are contacted by, or reach out to, dealers who might have something of interest. And, of course, we follow the international auction market. Occasionally, the trail to an object is circuitous, popping up at random, and leading us to places we would not otherwise find. This is what happened with our latest acquisition!

Facebook post by Delilah Jago on “Fashion Historians Unite!,” March 4, 2020.

I follow “Fashion Historians Unite!” on Facebook, and Delilah Jago, whom I do not know personally, posted on March 4, 2020 about an upcoming vintage clothing sale in Victoria, Australia. Curious about the collection from seeing the image attached to the advertisement—and not having heard of Steve Graham Auctioneer—I clicked on the link and quickly scrolled through the 500+ lots on my phone; it was a single-owner sale that also included furniture. I suddenly stopped at Lot 474. In a couple of small photos, I could see a magnificent evening ensemble with matched reception bodice, ball bodice, and trained skirt of black silk satin overlaid with black Chantilly lace embroidered with thousands of minute silver metal sequins, glass beads, jet, and prong-set rhinestones.

Ball Bodice, Henriette Favre, Paris, ca. 1902-06. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Barbara Bundy, 2020.5.21B/C.

Reception Bodice, Henriette Favre, Paris, ca. 1902-06. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Barbara Bundy, 2020.5.21A/C.

Evening Skirt, Henriette Favre, Paris, ca. 1902-06. FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Barbara Bundy, 2020.5.21C/C.

FIDM Museum Word Search

You might want to get out your magnifying glass for the next FIDM Museum Family Activity: we've put together a Fashion Designer Word Search! Look for twenty designers listed in the jumble; remember, the names will be spelled out horizontally, vertically, diagonally, and even backwards...

Download your copy of the Word Search by clicking this link, and don't forget to share your results with us using the hashtag #FIDMMuseumFamily. If you find yourself stumped, not to worry - we'll release a key on our social media accounts next week. 

The FIDM Museum Deco Fan

The FIDM Museum was thrilled to acquire an original fan by master fan-maker Sylvain Le Guen, commissioned to accompany a contemporary gown with an Art Deco motif in our collection. Associate Curator Christina Johnson walks us through the process of how this fan came to fruition, from commission to creation. 

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The FIDM Museum Deco Fan. Commissioned 2019. Commissioned Gift of Mona Lee Nesseth, 2019.5.78AB

Fan Reverse

It isn’t every day that a museum has the opportunity to commission a couture-quality fan, but thanks to the generosity of Mona Lee Nesseth, the FIDM Museum recently did just that! Created by Maître d’art Éventailliste Sylvain Le Guen, the FIDM Museum “Deco” fan beautifully represents a cultural tradition of French fan artistry merged with a contemporary approach to fashion aesthetics.

Le Figaro Modes, January 15, 1903. Bibliothèque nationale de France

Sporting Fashion Exhibition Update

Motorcycling ensemble, 1930s

 

The FIDM Museum is sad to announce the postponement of the Los Angeles opening of our exhibition Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800 to 1960, due to health and safety concerns and the current shelter-in-place requirements. We know many of you have been looking forward to Sporting Fashion for a long time. However, we are happy to report that with the support of our partner, the American Federation of Arts (AFA), our tour schedule for the exhibition to six institutions across the United States is still underway, beginning in March 2021. To see the current schedule of museums and opening dates, please visit the AFA website.

 

The final venue will now be our own Los Angeles FIDM Galleries, in 2024. 

 

Also on track is the launch of our corresponding 344-page catalogue in partnership with the AFA and Delmonico-Prestel in late summer, 2020. We hope to all gather together for this celebration, and will send out information in the near future.

 

Additionally, stay tuned for fun digital content related to both the catalogue and installations, and products that will be available through the FIDM Museum Shop and at each venue.

 

Feel free to contact us with any questions at info@FIDMmuseum.org.

 

We look forward to sharing our amazing Sporting Women with you soon!

 

Stay safe and healthy.

All the best,

The Curatorial Teams at the FIDM Museum and the AFA

Vintage Vantage: The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition

 

Today's post was written by Museum Coordinator Leigh Wishner, a key player in organizing our annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition. Leigh shares her tour highlights from a selection of films featured in this year's exhibition - read on for a fascinating, virtual mini-tour of three period productions!

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Do you love going to the movies, or streaming them from the comfort of your couch? Then chances are one of the elements that makes your viewing experience exciting are the costumes worn on screen. At the FIDM Museum, we’ve been displaying this facet of filmmaking for over two decades: our annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition just concluded its 28th year. One of my favorite aspects of working on this project only comes after every last mannequin is dressed, positioned, drilled-down in place, and camera-ready. That’s when we start giving tours, and when the real fun begins!

This year’s exhibition ended a week earlier than scheduled; because we didn’t get to lead the last remaining tours we had booked, and in the spirit of the times, I’d like to give our devoted museum audience a few of my tour highlights, just as I would have shared in person--but with a specific twist. Since I’m such a fan of vintage style, I’m going to share with you costumes from three period films. I hope you’ll see how imaginative costume designers can be even when they’re bound to historic people and events for inspiration. 

Interestingly, all of this year’s Academy Award nominees for Best Costume Design were period films (Jojo Rabbit, by Mayes C. Rubeo; The Irishman, by Sandy Powell and Christopher Peterson; Joker, by Mark Bridges; Once Upon a Time...in Hollywood, by Arianne Phillips; and, the winner, Little Women, by Jacqueline Durran). That isn’t so surprising, as period films tend to get the most attention when it comes to the fashions portrayed--the further removed our contemporary audience is from the era depicted, the more appreciation the costumes receive, primarily because they tend to be unlike what we wear now. It’s only natural that we “romanticize” the not-so-distant past, too, admiring the diversity of on-screen fashions whether they’re from the 1940s, 1960s, or the 1970s. Here, in chronological order, are my period picks. 

Jojo Rabbit

Jojo Rabbit, costume design by Mayes C. Rubeo